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July
1994
Whole
Food, Big Picture: What do we see on our plates? By Patrick Donnelly
The Whole Foods
Project is a non-profit organization providing organic
vegetarian meals for people with HIV/AIDS, cancer, heart disease,
and other serious illnesses. Since many factors affect health,
we make and encourage dietary choices that protext the environment,
treat animals humanely, and reduce the incidence of world
hunger. We need and welcome the assistance of volunteers in
every aspect of our work, and also welcome, of course, financial
contributions. Checks can be made out to The Tides Foundation/Whole
Foods Project and mailed to: Whole Foods Project, 115 East
23rd Street, 10th Floor, New York, NY 10010. (212) 420-1828.
[SIDEBAR]If you are a person with illness, please contact
us so we can let you know about our future programs. In the
meantime, we hope that when you look at your plate you see
brown rice, millet, barley, soba noodles, tofu and tempeh,
broccoli, cabbage, kale, collard greens, carrots, yams, squashes,
sweet potatoes, shiitake mushrooms, sea vegetables, garlic,
onions, ginger, miso soup, and green tea, because tradition
and science have shown that these are among the many plant
foods that help to prevent and heal illness.
One of Vietnamese monk and peace activistThich Nhat
Hanh’s charming books of meditations begins this way: "If
you are a poet, you will see that there is a cloud floating in this
sheet of paper. Without a cloud, there will be no rain; without rain,
the trees cannot grow; and without trees, we cannot make paper. The
cloud is essential for the paper to exist." The gentle burden of
Nhat Hanh’s song is that all things are interrelated, nothing
can be separated from anything else. He begins with clouds and paper;
we could begin anywhere. But there is one thing that is more emblematic
than any other of the interrelatedness of all things: and that is the
food we eat.
What do we see when we look deeply into the food on our plates, with
the eyes of a poet? As with Nhat Hanh’s paper, we could see clouds,
rain, sun, wind and earth, because these are the phenomena that sustain
everything that lives. But we can look deeper still. Do we see food
that has been brought to our tables with loving care - or food full
of pesticides, preservatives, additives, antibiotics, and growth hormones?
Do we see food grown by methods that left the Earth healthy and fecund,
or food whose production depleted and poisoned the land it grew on?
Do we see food that is whole, full of vitamins, minerals and vital energy
that we need to support our lives and health, or food whose integrity
has been diminished by processing and "refining," leaving
a kind of ghost of its presence on our plates and in our bodies?
If we look deeply into our food in this way, it can become a window
on the past and on the future. Do we see mostly plants on our plate,
making it more likely that we will be healthy and that there will be
enough food for everyone to eat? Or do we see mostly food that came
from animals, which represents their suffering, and causes ours, in
the form of illnesses, pollution, waste of precious resources, famine,
and untimely death? When we look at the food we choose to eat today,
do we see justice and safety for the people that grew it, picked it,
shipped it, sold it? If we are people already living with illness, is
the food on our plates of the kind that will support our healing, or
will it reinforce the imbalances that may have contributed to our becoming
ill in the first place?
The Whole Foods Project is an unique organization in New York City that
is dedicated to exploring these issues. We provide organic vegan meals
and holistic nutrition education for people with HIV/AIDS, cancer, heart
disease, and other life-challenging illnesses. About 75% of the people
we work with are living with an immune imbalance that may be related
to HIV. There are other organizations in New York and around the country
that provide meals for people with AIDS. But ours is the only such organization
that serves and teaches about a plant-based diet of whole grains, legumes,
vegetables, and fruits, grown by sustainable agricultural methods. We
do this in response to the substantial and growing body of research
that indicates these foods are able to prevent and heal illness, and
because our own deepest instincts tell us that personal healing is not
separate from the healing of the planet,
We also offer a comprehensive program of nutrition education, including
cooking classses, lectures and workshops, so people living with illness
can learn how to find, choose and prepare health-supportive food for
themselves. We offer our services to people at all stages of the immune
imbalance that may be caused by HIV, because we believe that the nutritional
support provided by whole vegetarian foods may prevent many from progressing
to full-blown AIDS.
The Whole Foods Project served almost 18,000 meals last year, in a supportive
social environment that helped to lessen the isolation that can accompany
serious illness. We are not a soup kitchen or a cafeteria - our guests
are made welcome at large round tables with fresh linens, flowers, and
candles, and are served by friendly waiters (many of whom are also clients).
This creates an opportunity for people to support one another and share
information about healing resources. One of our most popular ongoing
events is the Sunday Cabaret Suppers, weekly gatherings that offer not
only gourment vegan food but also the healing power of music and laughter,
courtesy of some of New York’s most talented musicians and comedians.
One of our primary goals is to show by example that healthy food need
not be boring, bland, or - sa is all too often the case - brown, so
when our guests look deeply into the food we serve they have a chance
to enjoy the magical colors, textures, and flavors of food that was
grown with respect for the Earth and prepared with love. This is an
experience that beckons us to life and sustains healing.
It will seem self-evident to many that the approach to nutrition I am
describing is well founded, but we have met some surprising obstacles
in our work. We have been told that our emphasis on an organic plant-based
diet is elitist and unrealistic, especially for people with low incomes.
We have been told that people of color are not uninterested in this
food, and won’t frequent places where it is served. We have been
told, by the head dietitian of a major food program for people with
AIDS in New York City, that while she is herself a vegetarian and sympathizes
with our approach, people simply are not capable of making the changes
we are suggesting, however beneficial they might be. We have been told,
by a medical advisor for a national publication for people with HIV,
that it may not be responsible for us to recomment that people with
HIV avoid sugar (which clinial research has shown to be an immune-suppressive)
because people with low incomes, who may derive as many as half their
daily calories from sugar foods, would not get enough calories. We have
been frustrated to watch a major AIDS-service organization in New York
City spending part of its multi-million-dollar budget to recommend for
people with immune imbalance the food that is meaking the rest of America
sick: "Eat whatever you want. Enjoy your favorite foods whenever
you want - and more often. Pizza for breakfast, pancakes and syrup for
dinner - go for it."
Our lives have been changed by looking deeply into whole foods, so we
can also see possible paths over, under, and around these obstavles.
We visualize that small food co-ops could be established in every neighborhood
where people could have access to organic food cheaply. We see people
of every color learning about and returning with enthusiasm to the health-supportive
traditional diets of their ancient cultures (which in almost every instance
were plant-based), leaving behind the foods that slavery and poverty
drove them to. We see holistic dietitians and whole foods chefs working
closely with people who have serious illnesses to support them through
the slow, difficult and emotional process of making changes in their
diet. We see people of every income being provided with correct nutritional
information, and being motivated by this to make healthy choices for
themselves.
The Whole Foods Project is itself going through a slow, difficult, emotional
and exciting process of transformation. Richard Pierce, former chef
at Angelica Kitchen in New York City, founded the project in 1991 as
a program of the Manhattan Center for Living. Thousands of people have
availed themselves of our services since that time. In January 1994
we decided that our goals could best be met by creating the Project
as a separate non-profit organization, and we have made tremendous progress
towards that goal in the last six months. We are working with community
leaders to secure a new space in which we may resume our meal program
and other services.
Our major focus now is fundraising. We have already received several
corporate and foundation grants, and are the recipient of Federal funds
to assist an organization creating a meal program in Brooklyn for people
with AIDS. In May we hosted the premiere of a new documentary film by
Gary Null, Living With AIDS Naturally, which focussed on holistic approaches
to treating immune imbalance and featured our work prominently. We raised
several thousand dollars from that event, and subsequent showings around
the country will also benefit the Project. On June 9th we staged a unique
benefit called the New Moon Carnival at St. John the Divine, which not
only raised a substantial amount of money, but demonstrated just how
elegant and sophisticated vegetarian food can be. Fifteen of New York’s
top restaurants, including Union Square Care, The Markham, Nosmo King,
Cascabel, The Odeon, and The Water Club prepared superb hors d’oeuvres
made from whole grains, beans, vegetables, and fruits. The actress Tatum
O’Neal in the carnival spirit. Even planning this event raised
ethical issues having to do with vegetarianism and animal rights. We
took heat from several of the restaurants who provided the marvelous
food, because of the inclusion of People for the Ethical Treatment of
Animals on our Honorary Benefit Committee. PETA has struck fear into
the hearts of many with their recent dramatic (and messy) "zappings"
of designers using fur. The restaurant owners - some of whom serve meat
at their establishments, though they did not do so at our event - were
afraid of attracting PETA’s attention, even in this positive way.
From the other end of the spectrum, we were criticized for featuring
performers from New York’s Big Apple Circus, which uses animal
acts (though, again, they did not do so at our event). In the process
of producing this event we worked to find a common ground among many
people with divergent views, and to build on the place where our views
intersected.
From the Anglo-Saxon word hal came the English words happy, health,
holy, and whole, and we named ourselves the Whole Foods Project to associate
ourselves with all those nuances of meaning. If we eat the ghosts of
food, we will ourselves become hungry ghosts of what we could be, but
if we look into our plate and see wholeness, we may find that wholeness
nurturing every aspect of our lives. Patrick Donnelly is a person living with immune
imbalance, who isn’t certain what role HIV plays in creating the
illness called AIDS. He is Program Coordinator of the Whole Foods Project.