February
2002
Chocolate:
Rich Taste, Richer History
By Rachel Cernansky
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It’s a universal pleasure, appreciated and adored
all over the world, in all forms, at all times of the year. But we rarely
wonder about the rich history behind chocolate, about its journey from
the farm to your local candy shop, or about the story of the farmers
who grow the beans that give life to this sinful indulgence we just
can’t get enough of.
We have the Olmec civilization to thank for its discovery, who began
cultivating the cocoa bean in modern-day Mexico as far back as 5000
BC. It was highly esteemed by both Mayan and Aztec cultures, who used
it primarily in making what became a traditional means of indulgence:
a drink known as Xoco-atl which is characterized as a “bitter water”
blend of ground cocoa, chili and water. The Aztecs esteemed cocoa for
capacities well beyond its delectable taste sensation, from the skin
protection provided by cocoa butter’s natural oils, to its function
as a form of currency, holding more value for them than gold. It also
played an important role in consecrating various religious rituals,
including marriage ceremonies and human sacrifices. Cocoa remained unknown
to Europeans until 1520, when the Spanish conquistadors returned with
it after seizing the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan. Even then its consumption
continued to be in drink form until 1761, when Englishman Joseph Fry
discovered the tasty combination of extracted cocoa butter and cocoa
powder with sugar. Before this solid chocolate made its debut, cocoa
was regarded as a powerful potion able to bring the body’s humors
into balance, and was considered by some to be dangerous by virtue of
its qualities as an “inflamer of passions”æa reputation
chocolate still holds today, minus the danger factor.
A Gift from the Rainforest
Cacao is the most widespread of the 22 species within the genus Theobroma,
which originated in eastern South America millions of years ago. Found
in Mexico and Costa Rica originally, cocoa was picked up and propagated
throughout the Caribbean and South America, then expanded into northern
parts of Africa, and still further into parts of southeast Asia. Farmers
in these areas eagerly adopted the new crop as it gained popularity
throughout the world. The ideal climate for growing cocoa is warm and
tropical, and so today it thrives primarily in the rainforests of the
Equatorial region. Côte d’Ivoire, Ghana and Indonesia are
the biggest contributors to the world’s total cocoa production,
which reached almost three million tons last year alone.
Cocoa trees thrive when grown under the cover of shade trees, which
provide both the ideal intensity of light as well as a natural protection
from pests, primarily sap-sucking insects, who become prevalent in shade-free
environments, necessitating high levels of pesticide use. Cocoa trees
grown under shade also need less pruning, making it a less labor intensive
crop, and thus a method of production friendlier to farmers, especially
if other crop-producing trees are chosen as the source of shade. While
they are short lived, banana or coconut trees are good for intercropping
and can provide another source of income for the farmer. However, while
these advantages would more than compensate for the extra measures that
sustainable cocoa production requires from the farmer, establishing
a cocoa farm on clear-cut land is tempting. It is less labor intensive
than farming on thinned forest (land that is left with partial tree
cover; our best option in the absence of the ideal rainforest), enticing
many farmers with a quick fix despite the environmental drawbacks that
follow. The higher demand on initial resources thus makes sustainable
forest farms difficult and disappointingly rare, while large areas of
forest continue to be destroyed to produce more beans, faster.
When cocoa is grown intensively for mass production, it causes environmental
destruction which is difficult or impossible to reverse. Aside from
the obvious losses of significant natural vegetation, forest clearing
results in reduced biodiversity and soil fertility, soil erosion and
stream sedimentation, as well as the hazards that agrochemicals and
their runoff impose on health and the environment. Also, while it isn’t
their natural rainforest habitat, wildlife came to adopt thinned forest
cocoa farms as their newfound homes and have been able to thrive in
this environment. But now, as even these thinned forests are cleared,
wildlife are deprived of any refuge at all. Fortunately, 70 percent
of the world’s cocoa is still produced by small farmers, which
does not necessarily mean they use eco-friendly methods of production,
but their plots are at least less likely to be set on cleared forest
areas. And, small farmers are less inclined to use chemicals in their
cocoa production, though this is often due to their inability to afford
any, rather than out of concern for the environment.
Chocolate Choices
This is where fair trade cocoa comes in. Farmers are paid a guaranteed
living wage for their crop, and often fair trade farmers are more devoted
to sustainable production methods and protecting the natural environment.
Despite the growing trend toward full sun, shade-free farms for mass
output, there’s an optimistic movement in promoting responsible
cocoa production. Partner organizations Conservation Agriculture Network
(CAN), based in Latin America, and the American-based Rainforest Alliance
work together to educate farmers on sustainable production and environmental
protection, as well as in establishing credit to buy supplies and getting
market information to better control their own cocoa trade and finances.
Once the established set of standards for both environmentally and socially
acceptable methods is met, a farm can be certified by the Rainforest
Alliance (www.rainforest-alliance.org)
to boast the “Eco-OK” label on its products, which can then
attract major buyers in the industry and hopefully catapult these farmers
into the world’s giant cocoa industry. The movement is gaining
momentum, with proof in Ecuador’s El Progreso community, whose
program obtained certification in 1998 and has grown to include eight
communities covering 7,400 acres of cocoa farms and 1,400 farmers. Our
personal choices as consumers make a difference by creating demand for
cruelty-free chocolate, sending a message with each dollar we spend.
Supporting fair trade means a decent living for farmers, whose success
bolsters their own choices for sustainable practices still further,
and encourages other farmers to follow suit.
There are a growing number of chocolate companies setting standards
with which the farmers must comply and for which the company will then
guarantee a fair price, instead of depending on the erratic world market
price. Green and Black’s is founded on the principles of fair trade,
and ensures that all its products meet the social and environmental
standards we wish all companies would uphold. Find their chocolate bars–many
of them clearly labeled as vegan–at your local natural foods store;
or order them directly from www.greenandblacks.com,
or through several other online fair trade-ers (see below). The Endangered
Species Chocolate Company is a fair trade chocolate company that, as
the name suggests, supports endangered wildlife and their habitats.
(Delicious!) chocolate is the medium they choose to effect their mission,
which is to raise awareness and educate the public on environmental
hazards and the wildlife thus jeopardized. What better way to reach
people than chocolate? Check them out at www.chocolatebar.com;
you’ll find an abundant vegan selection with them as well. The
Day Chocolate Company puts out a line of (milk-only) chocolate bars
and hot cocoa under the Divine Chocolate label, another fair trade brand
which, although lesser-known locally, has a somewhat bigger name overseas.
It is active in the UK, where it is based and becoming increasingly
successful in its ambitious strategy to promote fair trade. Day uses
several approaches, primarily the annual “Fair Trade Fortnight”
awareness campaign, and the establishment of “Divine Towns”
communities in which their product is marketed and the principles behind
it promoted. Find it at www.divinechocolate.com, or via other online
fair trade shops. Tropical Source, a familiar favorite among vegans
and others opting for dairy-free delights, offers some organic options,
but unfortunately does not use fair trade cocoa.
For further information on fair trade or to purchase products guaranteed
to be socially and environmentally sound from seedling to your doorstep,
here are some good starting points: Global Exchange (www.globalexchange.org)
is a non-profit organization dedicated to educating the U.S. public
on global matters, and has an online store with a product line that
goes well beyond chocolate; visit Fair Trade Federation’s Web site
(www.fairtradefederation.org)
to see how they work to improve the lives of poorly paid producers in
the developing world by connecting them with a global consumer market,
also with an online store; TransFair USA (www.transfairusa.org)
is the certification organization of the U.S., aiming to increase availability
of fair trade products, and awareness of why we should be demanding
them.
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